Lactic acid

In a recent blog bemoaning the failure of wine makers to include allergens in the labeling on the bottles, Ruth at  What Allergy? said that she had had a bad reaction (eczema – hard, liquid filled lumps which itched until scratched – on her eye lids, cheeks, forhead and across her back) after drinking a wine which included lactic bacteria as an ingredient. Given that she is highly allergic to all dairy products she assumed that this was the problem.

Well, it sounds as though it should have been – and it might have been – but then again, it might not…. So if you are confused, so are most other people…

Lactic acid bacteria do not, as such, have anything to do with dairy products; they are a bacteria used widely in the food industry to ferment hundreds of foods from yogurt to sauerkraut. The bacteria feed on sugars (they can only grow when some sort of sugars are present) and, as a result of ‘carbohydrate fermentation’, they produce lactic acid. The lactic acid lowers the carbohydrate content, and therefore the pH level, of the food (makes it more acid) to the point where other micro-organisms are unable to grow – thus dramatically increasing the shelf life of the food. This acidity also changes the texture of the food giving it the more intense and sharper flavours of fermented foods. This process is self limiting as the lactic acid bacteria cannot survive once the food becomes too acidic so, at that point, the process stops.

So far so good. The tricky bit, for those with serious sensitivity, is, on what substrate was the bacteria grown? What sugars were they fed on? If it was lactose then will enough lactose still be present in the bacteria to affect someone who is seriously sensitive? Quite possibly, yes. Similarly, if it was grown on a grain-based substrate such corn, will someone who is highly sensitive to corn react? Theoretically, the protein which causes the sensitivity should have been metabolised by the bacteria but, it is becoming clear that those who are seriously sensitive can react to individual molecules in a protein, not just to whole proteins, so someone who is seriously corn sensitive could react to a bacteria cultured on a corn base.

(If you want to know more about the work being done on the allergenicity of molecules, read the brief report of an Allergy Research Foundation meeting on the Foods Matter site.)

So what does a sensitive person do about lactic acid or lactic bacteria when they see it on label? What they should do is to ask on what substrate it was cultured – but you can just imagine what kind of a response you will get at  the Tesco checkout… Even if you ask the manufacturer, it is more than likely that they will not know – although the more allergen aware manufacturers are starting to realise that this kind of information may be important for their hard core customers.

So, as usual if you are super-sensitive, all you can do is to avoid it – just in case. As of now, lactic acid bacteria is usually cultured on a grain base, but this is not always the case and dairy (eg lactose) could have been used. Hopefully, with greater awareness, will come more information so that you can, again, make that much-to-be-wished-for ‘informed choice’.

 

 

Good pasta, excellent pasta, dreadful labelling – and Mostarda di Cremona…

I spent the weekend with my lovely friend, Italian cookery writer Anna del Conte and, just as happens every time I stay with her, I was left speechless by how wonderful the simplest of food can taste in the right hands.

For lunch on Saturday, for which we had guests, we had boiled meat with three boiled vegetables…. Not steamed, not sautéed, not sauced, not fused – just boiled. Boiled tongue accompanied by boiled potatoes, carrots and onions. Far from tasting dull or boring, the flavours were quite delicious – fresh, direct, ‘real’. The tongue was meltingly tender, given texture by the new potatoes, baby carrots and just one onion each. It would have been perfect just like that (and, be it noted, perfect also for anyone with any of the normal range of food allergies…) but perfection was heaped on perfection for me by the discovery of Mostarda di Cremona.

Now, it may be that I am deeply ignorant but I had never met this bizarre but delightful condiment which consists of pieces of fruits (cherries, pears, kiwis, papaya etc) preserved in sugar syrup with a mustard flavouring. Yes, I know, it sounds not only weird but disgusting – but trust me – it is actually wonderful! And especially with ‘boiled meats’, which is exactly what the Italians eat it with!

My other great discovery of the weekend was how to cook tortellini. I had bought some delicious artichoke stuffed spinach tortellini to take to Anna in my excellent Italian deli (Giacobazzi in South End Green). Many though the charms of rural Dorset may be, they do not include a good Italian deli and I know that there are a few delicacies after which Anna pines. I had also bought some yummy looking tomato sauce to go with them but, after only a moment’s consideration, Anna said, ‘No – we will have them “in brodo” – the sauce would be much too strong.’

‘In brodo’ means that instead of cooking the tortellini in water and them dressing them with a sauce, you cook them in stock (in our case some common or garden powdered stock mix from Marigold Health Foods) and then serve them in the broth sprinkled with grated Parmesan. This was somewhat of a revelation to me as I have always found tortellini served with the usual sauce rather stodgy and have always struggled to actually taste their stuffing. But served in a simple stock, not only does the, in this case, very delicate flavour of the artichoke stuffing come through clearly but far from being stodgy, they were pleasantly light and tender.

Re-inspired on the subject of tortellini (and feeling fairly knackered after a long day of freefrom-food-awards-shortlist-press-releasing), last night I took out one of the remaining samples from the freezer, the DS gluten-free tortellini with ham and cream – one, indeed, of the shortlisted products I had been press-releasing. Although they were not cooked ‘in brodo’ but in a cream sauce, they were actually very nice and certainly filled the bill last night. However, I was shocked when I came to wash the container before recycling it, to find the ingredients, as you can see, printed on the back in no less than eight languages in what cannot be more than 3, or at maximum, 4 point print. In the UK the minimum size print allowed on packaging is 6 point which is just about readable in good light; this particular product was made in Italy where obviously such regulations do not apply. However, it makes a complete nonsense of ‘allowing the consumer to make an informed choice’ if the consumer needs a strong magnifying glass and a spotlight to read the ingredients!!

If you wish to complain to DS – or to see what other products they have on offer –  you can check their website, email them or call them on 0800 954 1981.

Snow, light, SAD, impending ‘flu – and chicken soup….

Although the snow that is currently ‘whiting out’ a good deal of the country should, in theory, be bright and full of light, it only really works when the sky is clear and the sun reflecting back the whiteness. For most of this week there has, instead, been a dirty grey blanket covering the sky and sparkling reflections nowhere to be seen.

My Danish friend, Sinnet Morch, who has written for us about SAD, says that she grew up on a flat, Danish island ‘where the land was covered in deep snow for three of four months of the year. Before I started school I was let out in the garden during the best hours of light from ten to one. I built an igloo and on the dark days pushed my sledge into it, curled up on it and slept. When the sky was clear and the sun visible I placed my sledge in the middle of the lawn and lay on it staring into the pale world with wide-open eyes. Many animals know they need extra minerals and seek out deposits in the ground and regularly have a healthy lick. I think that my light-seeking then was a variation of the same instinct.’

For those of us for whom lying in the snow is not an option, modern science has produced ‘light therapy lamps’ which mimic the sun for us in the depths of winter. (For more on what is available see the bottom of Sinnet’s article.) But I have just been reading a post on Dr Briffa’s site suggesting that ‘ear lamps’ may be equally effective in getting the vital rays to the brain as the skull around the ear is very thin thus allowing better penetration. He quotes a pilot study which was very successful, but, because it failed to include a placebo group, needs to be replicated to be sure.

He give a link to a Swedish (ooops, sorry….. Finnish) company called Valkee  making ‘ear lamps’ which he feared were very expensive although, at £185 each, they are not that much more than many therapeutic lights.

As an additional remedy to extra light, Sinnet also recommends chicken soup – in her case, a very specific Hungarian chicken soup for which the recipe can be found here.

Although I do not belong to the Jewish tradition of Mama’s chicken soup, I certainly subscribe to its efficacy – not only for improving your mood but for knocking an impending cold or dose of ‘flu on the head! Well, maybe it was pure chance but certainly the last twice that I have made it  for those who feared that they were ‘coming down’, they both made a miraculous recovery.

My chicken soup is, naturally, totally ‘freefrom’ and is very simple, the only requirements being an organic (or at least freefrange) chicken and a fridge wells stocked with vegetable remains! Below is the very last of the last brew…. And, before anyone objects to the little globules of fat on the top….. The fat is an essential element and is what gives the soup both it flavour and its goodness. A good Jewish chicken soup will be judged by the amount of glistening and delicious chicken fat it incorporates.

Put chicken in large pot and cover it generously (well over the top) with filtered water with a teaspoonful of rough sea salt – I use the wonderful gray, damp salt from the Brittany coast.

Then add some of any or all of the following, scrubbed, chopped fairly roughly but not left so large that you will not be able to get the bit on your spoon… It really does not matter how much you add as, if you run out of space, you can always transfer to a larger saucepan…. And if your fridge contains some vegetable goodies that I have not mentioned, do not hesitate to include!

onions
garlic
leeks
carrots
parsnips
turnip
mushrooms
celery
celeriac
tomatoes
broccoli stalks
fine green beans
Savoy cabbage (not too much)
sliced Brussel sprouts (not too many)
spinach or other green leaves
parsley/parsley stalks chopped up
bay leaves (lots)
black pepper corns
handful of yellow split peas or green lentils

Bring all very slowly to the boil, then cover and simmer very gently for a minimum of 1 1/2 hours but for up to 3 hours. Adjust the seasoning to taste – and eat! By this time the chicken will have entirely disintegrated so you do need to take care to remove the bones as you go – but this is a relatively small price to pay.
And, of course, the remains just get better as the days go on – and you can add extra liquid as needed.

There are those who feel that it is improved by adding wine or stock to the cooking liquid but I actually do not agree, preferring the fresh, clean flavour  of just the chicken and vegetables.